Accomodation and Transportation in Patagonia (off season)

Let me preface this by saying that as far as I understood, Patagonia during peak season (Nov- Feb) is very different from shoulder season (March-April/Sept-Nov), is very different from WINTER (May-Sept). By the time we arrived in Northern Patagonia it was April and we finished our trip in Punta Arenas after the official start of Patagonian winter (May 1st). By then all the national parks were closed*.

Off-season means you have to take some things into consideration:

- Some hostels etc. close for the season as early as mid-March. the ones that stay open, however, often reduce their rates so there's an upside. - Weather: this is a huge factor. Many places, especially in smaller towns, don't have heating. Prepare accordingly. Furthermore, hitchhiking or waiting for buses means standing out in temperatures between 0-10C -Transportation resources may be fewer and farther between. We waited for a bus that never came and you may be told that a bus may or may not come, but if it does come it'll be there between hour x-y. Don't plan a tight schedule if you're going off the beaten path. -People. There will be less of them. This can both be a bad and good thing. We often found ourselves being solo at camp sites. Oddly wherever we went we were the only female without male accompaniment, which is kind of sad.

On the plus side, you can do treks that would normally be overcrowded, like Torres del Paine, without seeing a soul for hours. * Some parks are actually 100% closed while others close specific trails or forbid you from doing treks without a guide. This can change per year so check with the relevant authorities before making winter plans. Below you'll find our route, with dates and my little scribbles of how we got around.

Transportation options:

Buses: these will be your most frequently used form of transportation unless you rent a car (we looked into that option and it was completely unaffordable unless you return the vehicle to the same place you started). During high season buses run frequently to all main points of interest and even off season you have buses three times a day between the tourist hubs. Pros: easy, minimal planning required, relatively comfortable (bring a jacket because they are merciless with the A/C!) Cons: can be pretty pricy. Rides are usually over 10 hours without stopping so you can miss interesting things along the way. Boats: There are ferries connecting northern Patagonia (there are also 5 day cruises from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas in the south). Pros: change of pace, nice views of the fjords if you get good weather. Sometimes cheaper than a bus Cons: rides are pretty long and if you don't have good weather its basically like being on a bus. Hitchhiking: This is easier to do on the Chilean side than the Argentinian - Argentinians are a little bit more suspicious of backpackers for whatever reason. Never the less both are possible. Keep in mind to park yourself some place where drivers have to slow down (at the top of a hill, after a speed bump or intersection) and that rainy days it may be harder to get a ride. Pros: it's free! You meet pretty cool people. Cons: You could be waiting for hours. We got stuck in Cerro Castillo for a day and a half. Plane: Both Argentina and Chile have two new low cost airlines that fly to various destinations in Patagonia (mainly El Calafate, Bariloche, Ushuia, and Punta Arenas). Pros: obviously the fastest and most hassle free way to get to Patagonia Cons: $$$$. And You may have to backtrack in order to get to worthwhile locations.

Accomodations: pricing key $- under 10USD (around 5,000 CP) $$- 10-17USD (around 5000-10000CP) $$$- over 17USD (around 10000CP+) Puerto Varas Hostel Puerto Varas- $$ Overall Rating: 8/10 Comments: Good vibes, hot showers, neat rooms

Puerto Montt Mirador del Mar- $$ Overall Rating: 8/10 Comments: Hard to find, kind of a bed and breakfast in a family home rather than anything else.

Chaiten Hospedaje Rita- $$ Overall Rating: 7/10 Comments: showers ran out of hot water, nice vibes, no heating in the rooms. Coyhaique Casa Yolanda- $$ Overall Rating: 7/10 Comments: Rooms don't have heating. Yolanda is hilarious and generous. Laundry is expensive here. Expect a ton of Israelis until mid-April. Camping- 0 Overall Rating: 5/10. Comments: Free campsite outside of Coyhaique. We weren't really sure where we were but there was a stream so that's a plus. Rooms not heated :) Cerro Castillo (the breaking point) El Rodeo- $$ Overall Rating: 6/10 Comments: Wifi didn't work. Water was scalding or icy (always a good time). Rooms not heated. Camping Silvia- $ Overall Rating: 5/10 Comments: Seems like it could be nice during the summer, the place looked deserted and unclean. No wifi. No hot water. You pay 5000CP for grass. The owner is kinda nuts. Bonus: you can make bonfires on the property Camping Araucana - $ Overall Rating: 6/10 Comments: 4000CP, theres a refugio with a fire place and kitchen utensils/running water, bathrooms, no hot water though Puerto Ibanez Campo Omar- $ Overall Rating: 8/10 Comments: literally a patch of grass in the backyard but the hosts were super friendly and kind. House (you can use the kitchen) and shower were warm. Chile Chico Don Luis -$$ Overall Rating: 9/10 Comments: warm rooms, hot showers, very clean and comfortable El Chalten Rancho Grande-$$ Overall Rating: 8/10 Comments: 8/10 clean, comfortable but not personal, feels more like a hotel Camping: 0$ Campsites: Poincenot, Cerro Torre Overall rating: 7/10 both sites are quite basic with drop toilets and streams nearby for water. Poincenot has mice even in the winter so leave bait out Condor de los Andes- $$ Overall Rating: 7/10 Comments: cozy, wifi only work in the main area, rooms are pretty tiny, staff isn't the nicest. Laundry costs more than a nights stay. Use the sink. El Calafate Hostel BLA!-$$ Overall Rating: 9/10 Comments: nice vibe, solid breaky, rooms are warm, showers hot, wifi works Puerto Natales Backerpacker Cortes- $$ Overall Rating:9/10 Comments: host is the best, location is a bit out of town, rooms and showers heated, good vibes, excellent tunes Torres Del Paine W Trail, Camping- 0-$ Torres Central- $$ Comments: very cushy, 10,000CP Italiano- 0 Comments: decent camp site with a shelter toilet and stream nearby Paine Grande-$ Comments: We actually didn't pay (but more on that in the Torres del Paine post), shelter with cooking area, refugios kill the vibe. Punta Arenas Hostel Entre del Viento- $$$ Overall Rating: 8/10 Comments: place is clean comfortable quite nice but has very strict policies, is pricy, and located outside of the center Barefoot Backpackers- $$ Overall Rating: 7/10 Comments: rooms are cold, showers are iffy, host is nice, centrally located

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